A Starry Adventure on Pen y Fan

Camping and hiking have always been my escape - a chance to embrace adventure and find calm in an ever-moving world. Wild camping, in particular, brings a sense of steadiness that, for me, is hard to find elsewhere. While 2024 saw its share of hikes, wild camps, and adventures shared with my wife, I’ve set a new goal for 2025: a two-day hike and wild camp every single month.

I got a head start on this goal in late December 2024 with a trip to my favorite go-to mountain, Pen y Fan. Yes, technically a month early, but I couldn’t resist! Some people think I’m mad for heading out in the depths of winter, but with years of research and a commitment to investing in quality gear, I’ve built a kit that keeps me warm in temperatures as low as -10°C and beyond.

There’s something magical about winter camping: the stars shining above, the moonlight reflecting off the snow, and the peaceful silence of a frozen landscape. Waking up to frost on your tent and the crisp chill on your face might not be for everyone, but for me, it’s pure bliss.

So. December. I checked my weather apps: Clear Outside and Mountain Weather to see what the night had in store for Pen y Fan. Low-level cloud; 100%. Medium cloud; 50%. High cloud; A glorious 0%. Visibility was solid green at 9.

The summit was promising a clear, star-filled sky above the clouds.

With excitement, I packed my gear ensuring I had everything I’d need for a cold night on Pen y Fan.

My sleeping setup included the reliable OEX Phoxx 2 v II tent, Thermarest Neoair Xtherm mat for insulation, and a Snugpak Softie Expansion 4 sleeping bag to keep me warm. For nightwear, I packed my NatureHike down booties, leggings, and a cozy jumper. As for my camera kit, I kept it lightweight but effective, bringing along my Sony A7III, Sigma 14-24mm F2.8 lens, and my trusty tripod - just enough to photograph the night sky.

After loading up, I set off for Pont ar Daf car park (the one just to the right of Storey Arms). Stepping out of the car, I was greeted with 100% mist. My first thought? “Is this even worth it?” But then Pen y Fan stands at 886 meters. The summit might be high enough to break through the clouds - and reveal a magical night sky.

I started up the trail called The Motorway (called this due to being the most popular path up the mountain). Halfway up, I paused to breathe, switched off my head torch, and looked up. Through the haze, some of the brightest stars were starting to shine through. This was enough to keep me going.

When I finally reached the lip by Corn Du, I was greeted with an incredible sight; The horizon was full of stars and the summit of Pen Y Fan was silhouetted sleeping in front of a sky full of stars! The hard work of climbing “The Motorway” was worth every step. I knew the drill from past wild camping trips. I crossed the ridge to the right of Corn Du and found a flat(ish) patch of frozen ground to pitch my tent. Boy, was it cold! With the wind chill, it felt like -3°C.

My little Phoxx 2 v II tent is an absolute beast. My only gripe? It pitches the inner first, the outer second. If it’s wet or misty, the inside gets damp. Luckily, it was a dry night. Once my mat was inflated and my sleeping bag lofted, I swapped out my hiking clothes for my cozy down campwear. Time to get to work with the camera!

I wandered about 10 meters from my tent to line up the shot I had in mind. I wanted the tent in the foreground with the mountain in the middle, and the stars filling the rest of the frame. I fine-tuned the focus on the north star and made sure everything was tack-sharp. The reason to focus on the north star? - I wanted to capture the movement of the stars around the earth. The north polaris stay in the same place with the earth rotating around them. This movement of the earth, paired with a slow shutter causes the stars to “drag” across the frame, therefore causing Star Trails. here are my settings:

Shutter Speed: 30 seconds (the longer the shutter speed, the more motion is captured.).

Aperture: f/3.5 (the lower the number the more light is let into the lens).

ISO: 1600 (just the right balance of brightness and minimal noise - the higher the number the more sensitive the sensor is to light and the brighter the image).

Once I hit the shutter, BOOM! I knew I had the shot! I switched my camera to timelapse mode, set it to take 999 photos at 1-second intervals, and let it work its magic.

With everything set up, it was time to warm up and refuel.

Back in the tent, I lit my Jetboil cooker, made some pot noodles, and sat in awe of the night sky. It was so clear and dry that I left the tent door open, letting the stars light up the view. My sleeping bag, rated to -10°C, kept me snug as I drifted off under the stars.

The next day, after hiking back down, I loaded the photos onto my laptop - and wow. The results were incredible. The stars, the tent, the leading lines—it all came together perfectly.

If you’re debating whether to chase the stars at Pen y Fan, let me tell you—it’s worth every step, every shiver, and every bit of effort. Go for it!